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So far we have spoken, my friends, began the tireless Cavalier Prosdocimo of transactions that are made around the plant. We must now also worry about what needs to be done to the land on which our vines are located. The soil of the vineyard must be maintained in good condition with two categories of transactions: with the work and fertilizing. Tonight we'll talk about first. Work on the soil of the vineyard can be vital: those who are planting, and we talked about: Or they may be common: they are the ones that are made annually. And we take care of them now.

useless I show you that the soil of the vineyard must be worked: even our grandparents knew this, and you also know this: However it will not be out of place to mention (because someone heard him speak on occasion, you may be enthusiastic in inappropriately) that in recent time has gone here and there a curious theory making its way, so the vineyard should not be processed. And 'what has been called the lack of culture of the vine. Some have said and therefore claimed that the vineyards are better than non-manufactured products. Good thing ... .. if were true: Too bad .... this is true often enough! Mind you I did not say that it can not be true because I would not give anyone the impostor, but I said that too rarely quest'incultura can really be a good idea: And here is what I do not think it is appropriate to go into details in this regard. As you may concern, I therefore repeat our old: a good grower should well work the soil of his vineyard.

But now hasten to add that today the wise grower must find ways to get away but his vineyard with the least expense. And here I repeat what has been said and you know well: value, which seems to go waning, grapes and wine, the wages that van always growing workforce. ... But I will not get lost in conversation, and I get to the facts.
We must say that, in general, a good working vineyards import a first job, deeper than the others (but not too much, as once thought: enough, in northern Italy, nine inches), to be done in autumn or the beginning of winter. A second work, medium deep, to be done in the spring, before the flowering of the vines. A third work, the more superficial than others, what to do in the summer, before the grape changes color.

There is talk of how to perform this work in practice: these are things that you can teach me. But remember how often you do this work or tucked undermining the screws. Now, on the convenience of those tilling the screws and earthing up the views are quite different. I must say that these differences are due to very different purposes that these operations may aim according to the place.

So, for example, in warm climates for the most part the screws will undermine tucked in autumn and spring. Why? Why it's raining down there especially in winter, and want, with the tilling, accumulating more water than is possible at the foot of the screws. In the northern countries Instead you usually tuck in autumn and barefoot in the spring. Why? Why so the screws are better protected from the cold, and because the groove, which is to remain in the middle of the row, it prevents the water from rain or snow to stagnate at the foot of the screws. But if I tell you my opinion in our countries of the hill, where the cold is not exceptionally cold winter, where there is fear of excess moisture around the screws, I see no need to undermine it or to tuck. Just work the land equally and not to seek unnecessary complications.

Another point discussed about the work of the vineyard, is the opportunity or not to make it work deep. In recent times, after the current pro-ignorance of the vine, has run a different way for expressing so-called culture surface. To tell the truth, this seems to gather more sympathy and seems even more worthy of attention. They believe, therefore, the partisans of the culture surface, which works deep in the vineyard do more harm than good: And this mainly because they are almost inevitably to damage many of the shallow roots of the vine roots that are important to the normal development of plant.

and instead work surface, these roots would be met, while the other part of the surface soil of the vineyard is expected to remain in good condition. Who is right? Even here, much depends on natural conditions of the locality in question. However, in general, can be considered if this crop surface may be lucky and cool northern climates, where moisture is not lacking anything, it just will not adapt to hot climates where drought is frequent and prolonged. Under these conditions, the work will be those best placed fairly deep into the soil to store a sufficient supply of water.

But when it comes to work at the vineyard, however, there It must have taken a topic that today in most consideration: what is the mechanical ground as possible to save labor costs, and then growing. This saving will be all the more remarkable how much more work will be able to replace human labor of animals. To make this substitution, it is first necessary that the conditions of the vineyard allowing the work of animals, we understand how this can not usefully be applied, where the vineyards are on hills too steep or rough, where the soil is rocky, where, above all , the rows are too close together, so the animals can not work freely. That's why I said, nights ago, which today is generally more convenient than a long wine-growing subsidiary in herbaceous plants: why, forcing to enlarge gl'interfilari, makes it possible, or at least easier, working with the animals.

But it is also desirable to have the appropriate tools for the job. Until a few years ago, you could say that the only known and used for this purpose was the plow. And you all know those aratrini light by vineyards, with ear fixed or mobile, that are easily pulled by a horse or a mule and they do a decent job. In addition to these common plows, but now we know different tools, or better, machines for working the soil of the vineyards. Among the best, I remember the horse-hoes: machines equipped with a varying number (usually five) of blades arranged in parallel rows, so that they can work a strip of land large enough, so much to do one or two trips to work all a row in a vineyard intensive. Because just a poor animal to drag, they do a very cheap labor, rather shallow, it is true, but suitable for spring and summer, when the work that you claim more than anything else is to maintain the soil surface loose and free from bad herbs.

addition to real horse-hoes, you know other machines that do a different job: the so-called grubbers, cultivators, etc.: all designed to make work very anxious and somewhat superficial. And finally, we remember another class of instruments, still little known in Italy, but already quite popular abroad, where attention is paid, the more that we do not believe, the economy of working. You know that when you work the soil of vineyards with a plow (and pretty much the same can be said for the other tools I mentioned) is always a strip of land more or less wide under logs, that the instrument cultivators can not be processed, and must instead be completed with human labor.

Now, obviously what the loss of part of the benefit of working with animals. It was therefore designed to build some tool capable of working with animals, this strip of land. In France, these instruments are known for different types: the most interesting are certain kinds of plows (which the French call Charrues dé-cavailloneuses, because they say cavaillon that certain strip of land), able to go right under logs, without damaging the same. So far, as I said, these tools are not yet widespread in Italy, but I remember I have them there, because I think it would be worth a try and studied by our growers. And I conclude on this work the vineyards: therefore we believe that it, in our regions is needed, the more profound when the climate is arid, but never to the point of having to damage the roots of the vine.

And as far as possible, we try to replace the working with the workers that with animals, because in this way not just to reduce the cost of cultivation of the vineyard. Good night, gentlemen.

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UNITED WE CAN DO. SIGN THE APPEAL OF FIOM.



We called the general strike of metal workers for January 28, is a major step towards regaining the National Agreement and the Protection of Human Rights in the workplace.
The choice made by the body of the Fiat Mirafiori and Pomigliano D'Arco is an act unconstitutional, undemocratic and authoritarian unprecedented in the history of labor relations in our country since the war.
is an attack on the principles and values \u200b\u200bof the Italian Constitution and democracy because it tramples on the freedom of working men and women to decide which union to join collectively to defend their rights and elect their own representatives in the company. Who does not sign disappears and becomes a signatory unions and corporate guardian of the choices imposed by Fiat. Cancel the Contract Labour and National worsen factory conditions, you increase the exploitation and working time, it affects every right to strike and reduces the pay for those who get sick only once in wiping out years of struggle and conquest.
's blackmail Marchionne is consistent with the destruction of labor legislation in place that wants to make all alone and insecure, it's the same logic regressive put into practice by the government with the attack on the right to study and research implemented through the approval DDL Gelmini and cutting funds for the information and culture. They put themselves in check so
democratic principles of civil coexistence principles.
Fiom considered a common good and work for this after October 16th blackmail / referendum illegitimate by Pomigliano Fiat has created a great event, open to all those involved in the defense of constitutional rights and liberties inviolable.
The general strike proclaimed January 28 of the class and the events after the blackmail / referendum Mirafiori have the same goal as demonstrated by the introduction of exceptions in the National Agreement signed by Federmeccanica Metal Workers and other unions, when affecting fundamental rights it is not circumscribed the wound but gradually overwhelms all the world of work.
Fiom is committed to supporting the National Collective Labour without exception, to defend the legality, Democracy and freedom of trade union representation, job security and to combat the domination of the market that devour people's lives and undermine social cohesion and the future of the country.
We ask all persons, associations and movements that share these reasons to support the struggle of the metalworkers and to sign our appeal.

To sign the petition click here or visit the website of the Fiom
http://www.sinistraeliberta.eu/vetrina/uniti-ce-la-possiamo-fare-lappello-della-fiom

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UMBRIA: GIGI BORI CONFIRMED LEFT OF ECOLOGY REGIONAL COORDINATOR FREEDOM '



Yesterday evening, January 21, 2011, the Assembly elected by the first Congress Regional Umbrian SEL, which was held on 15 January, held its first meeting, during which he was elected unanimously ... outgoing spokesman and Gigi Bori as Regional Coordinator, according to the new roles envisaged by the Statute of Liberty Left Ecology.
E 'followed a long and thoughtful discussions on the challenges facing SEL in Umbria, the statement and the establishment of a new party in all territories, who knows how to listen and understand the current reality of Umbria, its many problems, and his fears and then you face the bearer of a concrete project for a new left for the new millennium, which can give answers and new projects outside the old logic of chairs, partitions and alliances at the table. In the words of our President Nichi Vendola, a new narrative.

Saturday, January 22, 2011

http://www.selumbria.org/umbria/gigi-bori-confermato-coordinatore-regionaleMostra all

Trish Stratus Vince Mcmahon Strip

twelfth thirteenth episode

The pruning, he began to say the Chevalier, is to complete the dry, and often to correct defects and errors of this, or trying to put away at a loss of the season. It consists of a series of transactions that are made on shoots that sprout on old wood or on the branches of a year. We see the main
Sule old wood (stump and branches) becomes first husking or spollonatura. This operation how many other never easy, which is to remove the suckers that sprout up on this branch or this strain. These shoots in most cases are unnecessary, and they only steal food to those bonds.

Just in case any of them bear fruit, or it could be used for pruning, you must respect it. Again, spollonatura will be better not to do on those screws that were too vigorous, so that, for plenty of humor too, were able little fruit. But in other cases, husking will be useful, and you will do as soon as practicable, that is, until tender shoots Saran, is that you can easily remove by hand. Of course, to be able to do in these conditions, you will need it several times, checking the shoots in various periods. On his head to good use you can do several things to pruning.


Among the most common there is the Suckering. It is the removal of those shoots which, despite being on his head to good use, do not bring grapes. They too will unnecessary, and in most cases it will be better remove them. Although this operation is to make good time, even when the sprouts are tender you can easily remove it by hand. Sometimes it screws up the weak and in poor soil, a Suckering made time to surprising results, so as to justify the saying that is the Suckering fertilization. But screw up very strong, more willing to make that leaves the fruit, it is better not to do Suckering, because it could do more harm than good. And when in doubt, it is best to wait until the flowering of the vines is over, not to provoke a Suckering inappropriate, the leaking of flowers.

other work that is done on the buds of fruiting is castration. It consists in the nails with the tip of the buds of fruiting. See that I mean to end that sort of small fan with which the shoot ends. Of course, the point taken away, not the sprouting more new internodes and new leaves. With this operation we would like to prevent moods get lost in the leaves of the upper part of seedlings, rather than accumulate in clusters. But we must not exaggerate in this respect. Some truncate the shoot on the second or third leaf above the cluster. And 'This is a very strict castration, which can get dangerous, preventing a good accumulation of sugar in the bunch, so this will eventually get less sweet. So, better castrated on the fifth or sixth leaf. And if it is weak and bolts of poor soils, better not castrate all, because of the vine leaves will not have some too.

Many growers, however, make the topping instead of castration. Apparently, the operation is equivalent to the previous year but in reality it is not. In fact, the flock is in check but the shoots to the fifth or sixth leaf above the last bunch, but this clipping is done much later than with castration, that is, when you already the upper leaves have developed. In a word: s'asporta not the only one very small tip of the spear, but a real piece of shoot. For reasons too obvious, then, that the castration is sometimes dangerous, the topping is definitely harmful. So, apart from exceptional cases, it is better not: It 's better to say instead of waiting for the castration and make the topping.

Unlike the case of so-called ricimatura. It would be the topping of the shoots. Now, this generally can clipping the shoots useful, especially if done early, when these words are still underdeveloped, because it prevents a bundle of excessive vegetation, and allows you to perform better treatments for diseases of the vine.
operation then that is all too common among growers is peeling. Some of you in this regard, it would deserve a slap on the ears. When the grapes begin to ripen, it captures a kind of frenzy will strip the clusters of its bolts. It seems that everyone wants to show the grace of God that was able to achieve with so many months of work and ruining the land without mercy most of the leaves of the vine.

I understand that the right bit of ambition that each of you can try, but it should come to the point of hurting your own interest. And this is why I recommend you be very careful in peeling. Limitatela in those cases where it is present on the ripeness of stunted and lazy, and even in these cases have it sparingly, removing the need pure, and take not all of the branches bearing leaves. Do you think that I am always leaves they feed to the plant, and therefore the clusters, and not without sacrificatele. There is still a task that I want to tell you something, though it now no longer unknown to any of you. But it is precisely because, sorry to tell you quite frankly, I've seen recently applied by the way, I want to talk.

allude annular incision. What is this? And 'the removal of a small ring of bark at the base of the head to fruit, or at the base of each fruiting shoots. This operation is done for the most part just before flowering, using special tenagliette. By doing this, it is to stop the descent of the nutritive materials prepared from the leaves, which, instead of going to end up in the trunk and roots, they stop to feed the best bunches of fruiting. And a highly visible effect of this operation it was in fact in the volume of grapes and berries, which, on the screws that have suffered the incision is much higher. Grows then, and not just the quantity of the product. But .... There are several "buts". First there is a growing quantity but the quality deteriorates. The grape is most abundant, but less sweet and more acidic, so the wines can not so good. Moreover, the screw must necessarily be weakened, because we prevented the nutritive materials to be distributed throughout the body of the plant.
So what? Then the annular incision has to be taken in exceptional cases, namely when the screws, or natural or weakness against the trend of the season (rather rainy spring), threatened to lose the flowers and do not bear fruit. Then you can groped incision with a high probability of success. However, you will not repeat for several consecutive years, so as not to exhaust the screw. It should be possible to abstain if you want to produce fine wines. I could speak to other practices, which can also be said of pruning, as the thinning of the bunches and berries, artificial pollination, and so on. etc.. but are operations that are almost exclusively for table grapes much prized, and little practical interest to the great wine-growing: and so I end up, compensating for the talk the other night too. A good bye, then.

The

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eleventh episode

Cazenave Cazenave is, as I said last time, a beautiful system, attack the Knight, it has been called a multiple Guyot, because only one strain of carries numerous small Guyot. The adult lives shows a long horizontal cordon, lying on a wire distance of 50 to 80 cm from the ground. On this cord can be found, about 25 cm from one another, many heads in the result of 5 or 6 buds and tied to an inclined upper edge, and as many spurs of two buds. The shoots that sprout selling linked to a third wire from the ground up m. 1.30 to 1.60.

For this system, the vines, planted in rows at distances quite considerable, are pruned to 1 year in a gem, 2nd year of 4 / 5 gems, removing the lower buds, 3rd year the most beautiful stretches of branches throughout its length (up to meet the next strain) on the first wire, and you blind all the gems below, leaving only the upper part of the developing buds, the 4th year each of the branches obtained is drinking at the second line and shoots that sprout bind to the third wire, the 5th year, the lowest branch of each of the old heads in fruit crops is a spur of two gems, the next largest after 5 / 6 gems, the rest is deleted.




now on pruning, as in Guyot, is to remove the old head of the fruit, ram the lowest branch of each spur, and shorten the highest. It 's a good way to screw very vigorous and fertile soils. Under these conditions, can give very high production: product quality, however, especially in northern countries where the grapes ripen later, can often leave something to be desired. So you should reserve it for very early maturing varieties. Another system is the strong productivity:

Sylvoz


The adult lives shows a long horizontal cordon, of lying on a sturdy wire about m.1.20 high ground, this cord v 'is a large number of animals to the fruit-head bent, and attached to a wire lower, about 80cm high from the ground. The buds of the basal part of each arch wire bind to one third higher, up about m. 1.70 from the ground. In this system there are no spurs. The branches are taken in succession from the base of each arch bearing the old, because, being the first part of these bows almost vertical will give strong hunted.
and above any of these cuts are hunted every year with the bow of the previous year that has now borne fruit. This system, like the previous one, can provide strong productions, but you have to reserve a fertile and robust wines, and we must avoid it with vines in late and very cold and wet, in which maturation is difficult. And finally, let me remind you one last system, this genuinely Italian and suitable for places where the screws are not available right. This system is now:

ray system

Here the screw reaches heights of previous far more significant, usually not less than 2 meters. Here, as in Sylvoz, we find a cord that is usually provided, however obliquely upwards, and on it a number of interest-bearing arches. The screws can rely on live backups (mostly maple) or dry poles: on the uplifting start of each wire that crosses the row, go to settle the row next to the corresponding support. Around to any tree or pole one finds two or three screws, each with one or two branches that are directed towards the middle dell'interfilare, supported the wires. So from a center, made from the tree, leave like so many rays, consisting of the branches of the vines.
pruning is to leave each year on a bow-bearing branches in every 25/30 cm., Collected from one of the shoots that developed at the base of the arches of the previous year. While growing and during the fruiting shoots hang freely in the air, and those of the base of the arches they support those branches placed vertically between the wires. This system is good for the climate rather cool and rather humid and fertile land, which would lower the systems of poor quality grapes. The screws rays while leaving bunches of being high above the ground, and to enjoy light and air in abundance, growing normally. But I see that has made her an hour later than usual. I told you that the subject was vast! Have patience: I will be shorter the next time I'll tell you something about the pruning. And now, good night!

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tenth episode

Among those with severe pruning, the Knights began, two really important to us. The first of these is the so called:

Sapling


It 's so called because it looks really takes the lives of a small tree that is self-sustaining, mostly without any help. It may be more or less rich, the sun has two branches (as is the sapling from Puglia), have many, (as it is in the sapling pot), not present at all (as some are very low and saplings of some Italian regions foreign). Let's see how you could get a tree in a vase. In the first year the vines, planted in square or quincunx, mostly at a distance of one meter, are pruned to a bud, leaving the vegetation to grow freely.

In Year 2 the only branch to be pruned again bud, by supporting the shoot vertically with a cane. At the 3rd year, the branch is pruned to five buds, the buds in the bud by removing the two lower and vertically supporting the barrel of the three highest ones. At the 4th year, the three branches are pruned to spurs of two or three buds, suppressing any support, and by merely bundling together the buds during the summer. At the 5th year in each of the three branches originated with the spurs last year, they leave the spurs of two or three gems in number more or less, depending on the vigor of the plant. Henceforth, the pruning will be to allow more new spurs, pruning two or three buds on the lowest branch of the old spur, and eliminating the highest.

E 'this is a good way to vineyards that have non-remunerated the first buds of the base, and that land be cultivated in dry and quite warm climates.

Another important system of pruning is to say:

horizontal spurred cordon


Vines are planted in rows at a distance not less than two meters, and in the row are placed in m.1.50 or 2 l 'from each other. At 1 year, prune to a bud, by supporting the bud with a cane. The 2nd year, pruning is the only branch with two gems, helping the vegetation in order to get two strong buds. At the 3rd years, mounting the scaffold with three rows of barbed wire: the first distance 50cm from the ground, the second from the first 30 cm, 60 cm from the third second. Of the two branches obtained, deletes the less beautiful, and the other curving arc, set in the first wire, and making it possible to get close up to the strain. 4th year all the branches are pruned to spurs of two buds and shoots are tied to wires above. At year 5, each of the two branches of the highest spur is suppressed, and the other is ramming in turn to two buds.
And so we continue in subsequent years when the continued operation of this pruning, the branches were formed because the secondary spurs have strayed too far from the horizontal cordon, trying to bring back the vegetation above it, using some ideas from the umbilical that shoots close to the same branch. The horizontal cordon is a great way for those varieties that adapts to the pruning and rich enough, and sufficiently fertile land: it can make products at the same time abundant and of good quality. Not to mention other methods of pruning that may be encountered less favorable in practice, I come to some system of long pruning or mixed. The most famous of these is the so-called:

Guyot


as I say famous, because in fact there was a long time when it seemed that it could be nothing better, so that the name was even "rational system." Now, no doubt it is a great system, but is not the case considered the best systems. Guyot system feature is to present a typical leader in wood, consisting of a spur, and a leader in the fruit is made from a branch with several buds. The vines, planted in rows, usually one meter apart in rows, at 1 year are pruned to a bud, and the seedling breeding along a rod placed vertically. In the second year the only branch is pruned to two buds and shoots are raised still a long vertical support.

the 3rd year we put in place the framework of the rows, in the original system consists of a single horizontal wire supported by posts, but today more often two or three wires overlap. The most beautiful stretches horizontally potandolo branches in 6 / 8 gems, the other two buds are spurs. While growing, the seeds of the spur are raised vertically on the pole or on the barrel, and those you check the result again on the last thread.
the 4th year we start pruning ordinary feature of the system Guyot is removed the old fruiting from the base, suitably shortened the highest branches of the old spur, and ramming Two gems on the lower branch.


But sometimes on the spur is not quite a branch that will serve as head of the fruit: in this case, we use the branch head of the base of the old fruit. After a number of years, but the screw is to rise too. Then we will try to back down, using a suckers that cues from the bottom of the log. After two years, the shoots will bring a fruit cane, and then cut across the top of the screw. The Guyot system is therefore a good system for those who love the long pruning vines, but not very rich, and those for land of average fertility, and not too fresh.

For screws very vigorous or very fertile land, the Guyot system would, however, a bit 'too poor, then hath been thought of editing it, enhanced by gems: I have no time to talk to you about these changes numerevolissime: I will only tell you that many of them, instead of one head to good use, I carry two, others will take more than two. Among the latter, I remember a nice system, which in some cases may also find useful applications for us. E 'on: Cazenave. But the hour is late, we'll talk next time. Good night.

Self Leveling Particle Board

ninth episode

in the range of the trimmer is the secret of production, began the Knight. Here is a sentence that You know as I am. But let me tell you, not all winemakers are good pruners. The pruning of the vine, in fact, is just as important a task as difficult. And that is what I hope that you will not look my pride, though tonight I will try to perfect your skills pruners.


We begin by distinguishing two pruning: the dry or winter, which is done while the screw is at rest, and the green or summer, which is done while the screw is in growth. The first is certainly more important. And there is no need to prove this importance, as you all know that only a good pruning can give us an abundant production, and constant valuable, while retaining the plant in good condition, not so shortening the life of the vineyard.

But to do a good pruning should first bear in mind certain principles. And, first, that the vegetative vigor of a screw, to a certain point, contrary to the inclination of this vine to bear fruit; that vegetative vigor of the plant is proportional to the number of leaves that the plant has, that the development of organs screw (branches, leaves and fruits (is greater the lower the number of individual organs (so if we leave a few branches to a vine, they will develop more if they let that many, that root development is proportionate to that of bodies standard above ground: that the vertical position of a branch is more favorable to a vigorous development of a good fruiting vice versa in a horizontal or curved, bottlenecks, engravings, are all conducive to fruiting, the fruit of the vine normally is located on shoots that sprout from the branches of a year, led by the wood of two years.



As we have said, we can therefore make a distinction between:
heads to wood, those who by their upright position, because of their small number of gems, are most likely to give vigorous shoots;
and head to fruit, those who through their horizontal or curved, for the always rather significant number of stones that lead, are most likely to bear fruit of good and plentiful. The leaders in wood usually consist of croissants or spurs of two or three buds. I head to fruit from shoots of 5 / 6 or more gems.
But we have cases where spurs run by leaders such as wood from fruit heads: the case of vines, which have bearing only the buds of the base of branches. Then these vines with pruning will not let that spurs: will that is the pruning. To all others, that you leave the branches bearing more gems, will be a long pruning.

You could also distinguish the name of the pruning that leaves mixed with a screw on both spurs As interest-bearing branches. But do not confuse the poor pruning with pruning. It is said that poor pruning on the system of pruning adopted vine leaves on a small number of buds, pruning that rich, always respect, it leaves a large number. We understand that this can conveniently be taken only with vigorous vines, grown in fertile soils. Before we talk about some good system of pruning, I must add, however, some other general concept. Sometimes you will hear talk about pruning away gem. It consists in cutting the branches, not half an internode, for the most part you do, but through the top node to the last gem you need to leave.


In this way, you do not put into the open the pith of the shoot, but the hard tissue, which I mentioned is called the diaphragm. And the gem below it will be better preserved from moisture damage, insect, or whatever.
any of you an admirer of another way of pruning: pruning the Dézeimeris. It is to cut branches or branches, not just skimming the party must remain, but in order to leave kind of stump of wood, that only with time that will then be removed and disseccherà hill pruning of the following years. It 's a good system for cold and wet, which often produce cuts of pruning wounds, the frost makes it more serious.
And by the way you cut, we also say a word about the tools you need. Even here, few but good. Do not do too much in the economy by pruning shears. Be of good steel, good size, with a good spring, and is always sharp and without teeth: a good saw to cut large branches will complement your arsenal of pruning.




Another tip on the age of pruning. It 'best to prune early in the autumn or winter pruning, and pruning in early spring? The most appropriate time varies depending on the circumstances. What I say now in the South and you have more freedom to prune when you have time. But in northern climates without pruning too early can be fatal. The vines pruned in autumn, in fact, come first in growth in spring. Now, this early appearance of the buds can be dangerous where spring frosts are frequent. You know what damage it can cause a frost that hit the tender shoots: it is because where are these brines to fear (especially in the vineyards exposed to the east), it is best to wait to prune in late winter or early spring.
also for other reasons, today we tend to prefer the later pruning. However, they have the disadvantage that they coincide with periods of great work in the country. Wanting so avoid over-consuming, you may, during the autumn and winter, begin pruning by removing unnecessary parts of the vine, the branches that have already borne fruit and that it should die.

So in the spring will soon to complete pruning, which will simply remain on the vine to the branches
light of those few general news, I should now speak of the best pruning systems. But here there is plenty of choice. In the short time we have at our disposal principalissimi means applying only to systems that can have an interest in Italian viticulture. We'll do it next time, now the hour is late, goodnight all

Where To Buy Sterling Silver Discs

eighth episode

EIGHTH EPISODE
last night, the Knights began, you saw how each of you can prepare the grafted needed to replant his vineyard: Tonight we have to say something about this plant new vineyards. But first of all I feel obliged to preface a debut. Before attempting to plant a vineyard, I want each of you did a kind of self-examination. And wondered: "I'm doing well or doing wrong?". And I would like first to respond, try to remember those sad years, which unfortunately are repeated so often in recent times, those years, I say, when it seemed that he meant to have pain vineyards and producing grapes, it seemed crazy stuff, to sell wine business from desperate. I would like you to think of all this, and reflected that the past can at any moment regaining this: I would like in a word, that each of you, before planting a vineyard, he wonders if he will make this work with a good deal for himself and a good deed for his country, or if by chance will not make quite the contrary. And how do you know this? Someone will ask of you. I'll tell you. If you want the land planted with vines may be good fodder for plenty of the grain barn, and planted vines, but you do not sow wheat or take a beautiful lawn. And if you get past your vineyard wine from bad, evil in the legs, which are hardly found to sell, and you do not replanted vines planted but any other stuff: maybe a forest, if you can not put better, and do good work. The vineyard, in a word must be reserved for those soils where it can give good products and where they could not grow other useful products. After quest'esordio, let me give you some advice on the installation of the vineyards.

you'll pick the ground, you think that a well-prepared. And first, if necessary, to accommodate the surface, because the rain water unable to give, but rather beneficial succeed. If the ground is level, you see enough to give him a slope towards a corner, and munirlo of numerous drainage ditches, which in a more sbocchino limiting the plot, so that water does not stagnate. If you are connected, do not let the water running wildly down the slope, removing earth and digging ruts in every sense, but guide them in Fossetti horizontal, which from time to time to communicate with the lower inclined by short stretches. And you do not have the rows according to the maximum slope of the land, but have them horizontal, ie perpendicular to this slope. System, but the surface is not enough.


need a good fundamental work on the ground. It should be a burglary. All the best growers even in ancient times have always attached great importance to this work of burglary. All the more reason you give him you, you have to use American vines, generally more demanding in terms of land. This work of tampering can be total or partial. When as soon as possible, the former is much better. It will be a must, each time you plant a vineyard intensive, that is where the screws need to be very close together. Do not do too much work in this economy. Do not less than two feet deep, and if need be, eighties, and maybe a meter. But if you intend to plant a vineyard with rows very distant from each other, can fail to break this total, and you can limit yourself to a break-in was. Open the words was wide from three feet to five feet deep and seventy or more inches. If possible, begin working with the plow and Finish him off with his arms: not just save the expense. What I recommend is to make this work soon.


not wait until the time of implantation, but, especially if the soil is compact, do it in August, so that the clods are to feel the beneficial effect of the sun, rain and frost. Good soil preparation, however, also an appropriate fertilizer. And the more it will be necessary to plant the vine, since this plant must remain in the soil for many years. But I reserve the fertilizer in the vineyard to speak to another night. Let's assume for now that you have properly fitted this as well. You'll be entrusted to the ground when the young plants of lives. Here, however, overlook other serious problems. And above all: which varieties, or what varieties of screws you have to choose? Obviously, you can not single answer for everyone. But what I can, in fact I recommend, is to put a lot of attention to this choice of grape variety or varieties.

First, in your vineyard ponetene few but good: I do not mean to limit yourself to just one, on the contrary, in most cases it will be more prudent to have two or three different ones. But not an army of grapes! Do not repeat the error, which unfortunately is so common in old plants, to the vineyards of the most colorful dress of Harlequin. A few vines, but I said good. The goodness of a vine is all relative. It will be a good vine that adapts to your region, the farming systems more affordable for you, which is capable of giving a good quality product and fairly abundant and constant. See that no accident I put the first good quality: Unfortunately in recent times the quality was often sacrificed to quantity, and this was a major cause of the terrible crisis of abundance that has become so notorious in Italy. In the selection of varieties, even if you think there convenisse rather produce table grapes instead of wine. How much should I talk about the cultivation of table grapes! And as I insist you understand all the importance it has for us today! But time forces me to limit myself to the board to think a little 'more seriously than in the past in this crop, as it will become increasingly profitable, as is always increasing the demand for table grapes in Italy and abroad .

In this regard, but I must warn you that you need to run so haphazardly in the cultivation of table grapes, first going to realize the possibility to be able to exercise at a profit. And this possibility depends, not only by favorable natural conditions, climate and soil, the town where you sit, but also its economic conditions, namely the possibility to well organize the sale of these grapes. This is a very delicate and mostly you have to sell as quickly as possible. Now, if this sale can not be done in place, you have to think about whether you can easily arrange transportation of the grapes up to the consumption centers. Which usually can not be done conveniently, if the quantity of grapes to be shipped does not reach a certain scale. Chosen the vine or vineyard vines future for your own sake, remain to be solve other problems. Which system of cultivation and pruning you want to be taken in that vineyard? And above all: you want to do with viticulture or viticulture specialist subsidiary?: Very interesting question, this: It is said that specializes in viticulture which the screw is the only plant cultivated in the vineyard, and any other plant, herbaceous or woody, is not included: Until recently, the best wine-makers were almost of the proponents of this course: It is no longer the case. Why? Because today the terms of viticulture are no longer those of the past.


Today the product of the vine hardly reaches very remunerative prices; vice versa tend to increase the prices of many other agricultural products, especially of herbaceous plants, and growing wages of the workforce that is so necessary for viticulture. Under these conditions, it becomes evident the convenience to place in our vineyards also to some other crop, especially grass. This second crop will force us to leave in the vineyard rows larger. Will decrease as the number of vines in our vineyard, but this will also give us other products, which will raise the income is not insignificant. Not only that, but with wider inter-row will make it possible to adopt for many jobs, especially in the land, animals, saving hand opera, and thus reducing considerably the annual costs.

Viticulture subsidiary in herbaceous plants occurs then today, in general, the most convenient: But we must choose these herbaceous plants. Some grow between the rows of maize and wheat: and nothing else. Poor system. You ruin the vineyard and you get the miserable harvests of cereals. Wheat can be successfully grown in the vineyards, but when it alternates with a good legume, for example, with red clover. You will have from your vineyard grapes, wheat and clover, three excellent products, and none of the three crops will suffer. Mind you, though: do not suffer, if you are not stingy with fertilizer, specialty chemicals, to the ground. This requires that a sowing of wheat given you five or six pounds of superphosphate per hectare, one to two tons of potassium sulphate and four or six tons of gypsum (Please note that we are approssimative1 figures). And it is also necessary that the wheat sown behind the screws, but that left, up and down the rows of vines, a strip of bare soil about two feet wide. But there is only the wheat with clover that adapts to a combination with the screw. There are other forage that may well alternate with wheat in the alleyways. This is the clover, that is the old invernenga, they forage turnips. Even some legumes Grain could lend itself well to this subsidiary. So the beans, so the peas. Of course each of you will choose the plan that best adapts to their land and the interests of his company. But the vine may be associated with woody plants, especially with some fruit. Be careful here, however, does not want too, because, if they presume to have time to vineyards and orchards will probably end up ruining everything. But if in your vineyards and moderation policy distributed with a number of fruit trees that less damage with their shade the vine, you will do something very appropriate for the economy of your company. The plants which are the best in northern Italy in those companies are the peach; much less indicated are the pear and apple trees. In southern

still used instead usefully figs and almonds. Chose the cheapest system of cultivation, you must choose a good system of pruning. Similarly, it was good before you decide to start the installation, for knowing how to adjust well in the distances at which lay the screws. We'll talk about another night of pruning. For now we say that this criterion of a good system of pruning should be done taking into account firstly the nature and needs of the grape, the soil type and climate, and economic conditions of the site (or less abundance of labor ; ease to have affordable support system suitable for pruning, getting the screws on most products, high prices, or consumer products, etc..) Anyway, take care always to choose a system which, while allowing you to obtain abundant products, the quality does not deteriorate too much, for the reasons outlined above. Solved this problem, you can really begin the operations of the plant. First, mark the spots where you put the screws. You will then decide the distance and the provision to be given to planting. The former mainly depends on the pruning system, the vigor of the variety and soil fertility.

However, not exaggerated in the denseness of plants, especially now that American vines will work. With regard to the provision of seedlings, they should be more regular as possible. The bulk of the old vine vineyards are incompatible with modern viticulture and economic. If the pruning system requires that the screws remain isolated (as many trees), adopted a provision in square or quincunx. However, if the vines must be trained in rows, evenly spaced rows taken, if the flat, direct from north to south, though the hill, following many horizontal lines, that is perpendicular to the maximum slope. A word also on the age of the vines to plant. Able, it is always best to plant in autumn. And in fact the good winemakers planted in autumn in warm climates and even in cold climates, except in its place where the stiff winter could cause concern for the death of the plants from freezing. Where you plant in autumn, and you want to be sure that the cold will not damage the cuttings, cover them with manure Pagliosa newly planted. O litter or dry leaves. I said, rooted.

Some of you might wonder if perhaps it is best to plant cuttings. I have already alluded to this point once more: I repeat now that, in most cases, it is more prudent planting rooted cuttings, nursery, preferably already grafted, that is rooted American grafted with European varieties that we want. Please note that we do not say, rooted Europe. This amounts to advise you of all stick to the American vines. Not that their place is now essential in every planting American vines. There is some cases where, for special reasons, there is reason to believe that phylloxera will not come for who knows how long, and in such cases would be useless to turn to American vines: But .... Are white flies, these cases of it is good you do not you factor. And here we finally come to the operation of the system. So everything will be ready: Your grafted saran already in place, and not rhetoric that plant them. It will not hurt them before you leave for a few hours immersed in water with dissolved a bit ' copper sulphate (one pound per hectolitre).


For each of them then you will cut the roots decayed or injured, and shorten the healthy ones. At the point where you should set the screw opens a dimple having a depth a bit 'larger than that must be set in the barbatella, and on the bottom of it you pay a bit' mature manure, which is covered with fine soil , arranged to form a sort of cone. About this is the adagerà barbatella, so that the roots rest on the fine soil, then they will pay on other good ground, that will compress slightly with your hands. See that the barbatella must be taken so that the point of engagement remain five or six inches above the general level of the ground. Filled the dimple is the thereat barbatella up over the coupling point. The best tralcetto rooted should be pruned to a few gems (one to four depending on the pruning system that you want to take) and must rely on a support that has been planted at the side rooted within the dimple. Cos' runs the plant, which will not be lavishing care on young vines those which we have already mentioned to the young vines in nurseries, especially not to overlook the treatment fungicides that are absolutely necessary; mantener clean, soft soil, remove the roots that tick above the graft and suckers sticking to the one below, to support the shoots that will grow from the scion.

will also be important in this first year to see whether some lives is false, if any evil grows or dies, in order to early autumn of the first annual perform the necessary substitutions. Of course, at the end of the first year the young vines should be pruned to a convenient, is to have as soon as the new vineyard development in full and in good production. At a next evening, therefore, the subject of pruning.

Do Pap Smears Hurt? 2010

seventh episode


SEVEN WAGER
grafting of the vine graft Here we are talking about the lives, began without many preambles Knight. Important topic today because it is the engagement of the screws on homegrown American who saved the European vineyards by phylloxera. What is the connection you know: is carried by a screw in a piece of branch with one or more gems of another screw up, so that it balances perfectly and develop as if he were still on mother plants. Ancient practice, this and that also often used in viticulture, especially to rejuvenate old vines or to change the quality of the grape, a practice that is sorely needed, to use American vines resistant to phylloxera, they continue to get those products that so far we have always received from our vineyards. Very

I speak first of the phenomena that occur in that wonderful operation of the graft, but the time available to us is short, and I must move on. But I can not help but mention it to the principal terms of success degl'innesti. First of all, we need the two plants to be grafted to each other can get along, what does not happen between them if there is a certain degree. Regarding our case, in general, all the screws can engage with each other, but, being American grapes with European vines, not all give equally good results and that is not engraftment in all is equally good. So, to be selected in each case the ivy which adapts itself more European than we grafted onto. Second, because the good engraftment occurs, care should be taken that the two parties unite by grafting match each other perfectly without leaving an empty space, which would soon dry out the graft.

In this regard, remember that should fit particularly well with each other living tissues of the shoots, and that is the part that is commonly said to the cortex, and right down to the wood (in fact, wood and bone tissues are dead, which can have no much smaller in relation to the graft). To achieve this perfect match, should be good to have good gear, and tools. Only in this way will cut the net well, without irregularities, without crushing. We must also ensure that the cut surfaces caschino foreign substances (dirt, sand, rust, knives, etc.).. It also promotes the grafting a good temperature: the ideal would be a temperature of 20 ° C. a25 because then the welding of the graft would be very quickly. And do not even missing a fair degree of humidity, air will moderate, because the graft can "breathe." This Accordingly, we can run as grafting of the vine. First, however, some definitions, just to be clear: We will say that the subject or graft screw that carries the roots, which then receives the graft (for the most part today it is American). We say that piece of scion scion or branch that, once soldered on the subject, will the leaves, flowers and fruit to the plant engaged. We will say a foot away lives that is not engaged. Now, the engagement of the screw can be done in several ways: between parties with different sizes or have the same size. We begin by grafts between the woody parts, or grafting wood. Some of them are between the parties or members having different dimensions. And 'this is the case of common split grafts, which are performed from time immemorial in our vineyards, especially on older stems. As you know, the strain is decapitated at ground level with a saw, then with a special chisel breaks in whole or in part. In this gap are introduced two scions, cut a wedge, if you did a full split, or a single scion, cut knife, if you made a partial gap (radial or if you prefer).


Quest'innesti are made mostly in March-April, after the tears of the vine. But much more interesting now other woody grafts, in which the scion and subject are the same size, and mostly consist of two cuttings. I want to talk British grafts. We have three types of grafts English: plain English, English bone marrow needle, English double slit. In all three cases, and subject scion are cut at a node, slant, so that the two surfaces of section are exactly the same, so that, by presenting the scion to the subject, both match exactly. To perform these grafts using a special knife, Kunde said, presenting a flat blade on one side and slightly convex on the other, and ending with a kind of nail. Of course, the knife must always be kept sharp, and does not exhibit the slightest tooth. If the graft

plain English, there is nothing that approximate the two surfaces of section, and tie tightly coupling point. But this is little used, because they are not solid. Nell'innesto spinal needle, made the cuts as mentioned above, in the spinal s'infigge a piece of galvanized iron wire 6 cm long. In this way, the graft acquires greater stability. But even this form of widespread graft has run from us. Those that met the graft is widely favor English double slit, which is certainly the most widely used form of engagement after the phylloxera has invaded our vineyards. To run it, the two began to be cut such that devon serve, respectively, from March, subject, with the edge slant usual, then about one quarter of the upper surface of cutting a slit on the other work on the bass, about an inch long, and leveraging coll'innestatoio departs slightly the flap thus obtained. Raised so these tabs in March and in person, you penetrate one o'clock in the cleft of the other, so as to achieve a perfect mating between the two States.

If the graft is well done, it must appear strong enough to light impact, even without being connected. A word also on herbaceous grafts. They differ from previous ones, because instead of being executed between the parties already lignified, are still carried out between herbaceous shoots. I must say that in general, these grafts are most commonly used herb in the south than from us. However, some evidence that we have made, as we have seen would not be impossible to adopt even in northern countries. The most notable advantage is that they present is to allow re-engagement in the summer, when it failed woody grafting performed in the winter or early spring. One of the most used is the English herbaceous graft or graft behave. You run in the identical manner that is woody, but green shoots above. After it binds with untwisted wool. The time most suitable falls in the south in June. It 'very popular in Sicily. Also in Sicily, in Puglia, are now spreading herbaceous bud grafts: a shield, a whistle.





s'eseguiscono, too, in June and July, working in a similar manner to that used for fruit trees. I do not have time to talk at length about them: I would rather take our English woody grafts, which have much importance for us. When and where do these grafts? English Gl'innesti between two cuttings, gl'innesti-cutting as they are called, I can run comfortably seated before a table, even during the winter when the weather is less valuable for growers. It 'so they say grafted table. But usually it is best to wait to run just before the time of installation: ie from late February to mid April. Once executed, quest'innesti-cutting (which therefore are typically made of a subject and an American or European scion nostrana if you prefer) can be assigned to the ground as if they were mere cuttings. So you did at first, and so is even today by some.

In these cases, however, should first tie on the point of engagement. The binding is done with a special fiber called bast: very suitable because it is tough without damaging the graft, and why it is very economical. But with this plant immediately, you run the risk of having many failed areas, especially if the season just benign hinders the welding of the grafts. Has run then thought if it could not have done this before leaving Welding grafts to the ground. And here is the source and purpose of this practice, you've probably heard of: the forcing of the grafts. How do I? In various ways. Who has to prepare a large number of grafts, especially those who trade in grafted vines in northern Italy, often used in special forcing artificially heated greenhouses
I do not pause to describe this process, which is delicate and expensive. Everything here becomes big. Teams of workers and workers, often special machines to run gl'innesti (just good in general, except perhaps one that responds to the pretty name Feitzelmeyer), cases in which special-gl'innesti cuttings are layered, mostly with sawdust wood and then glazing greenhouses, heated stove or heater better ... .. There are things for you. For you there is a method much simpler and more economical: insabbiatura grafts. It can be done in two ways: either with special wooden boxes covered with glass, or, more simply, without bins. In the first case, are constructed of large wooden boxes and 3 meters long, with no bottom. The land on which should rely digs so he had an inclination that the north side is 10 cm deep, and from noon to about 1 meter.

The top of the box has a lid made from mobile un'invetriata, tilted, like the bottom, around noon. In this way, the sun's rays fall on the glass as if to lead. To fill the boxes, start by putting on a bottom layer of about 10 cm of sand on it then you have standing gl'innesti-cutting (without tie), filling the spaces between each other with sand clean, not too fine. Fill the tank, you pay an even higher stratarello of 5 or 6 cm of sand, then lightly s'innaffia; finally put in place the glazed. So do not just have to repeat from time to time, some light watering, if the sand tends to become too dry. And so, thanks to the sun's heat, in twenty days or a month, depending on the local climate, the bias is accomplished, and gl'innesti are ready to be planted. The other system is also more cost efficient without the use of caissons, with only a few vertical axes a piece of land in front of a wall facing south, and pour the sand on this ground where collocan grafts together in bundles of 50 each.

Again, after the grafts placed vertically, it pours on them the other way to cover them in sand for 5 or 6 cm. And it's all here. Only in cases of very violent rains can protect this with sand mats. The duration of the override in this case ranging from 30 to 40 days. However, we do, over the forcing, gl'innesti hereafter ready for planting. Again you can follow two routes. These grafts, cuttings or plant directly on land that has become a vineyard, without making them suffer more than any transplant (planting at home) or plant them first in a nursery, where they will stay one or two years, before being removed and transplanted to stay . I must say that in most cases it is preferable that second system: ie the plant tion in the nursery. Just in case you have vineyards in ground conditions are particularly favorable, ed'aver convenience of making these grafts to all those treatments that are appropriate treatments in a vineyard a little 'big becomes longer and more expensive, the plant chin dwelling may be preferred.





But in most cases the best results are obtained in the plant nursery. The nursery by grafting should be even better prepared than that chosen for it. Must have a rather light soil, if necessary irrigated, flat, well-fertilized with chemical fertilizers, manure or superphosphate corrected. Must of course be well worked at least 40 -50 inches deep. Prepared the ground PEL nursery, we proceed to the system of the grafts. This should be performed in equidistant lines or coupled lines, or two at a time close to each other. In a third case the file is 60 -65 cm from each other, in case 2 a couple other Dister 30 cm; the two rows of a pair of 15 cm. Gl'innesti the row away from each other 5 to 10 cm. To plant the grafts, as long as you dig a fossettina line, and deep as is necessary for the grafts, once planted, they point di'innesto of 5 to 6 cm higher than ground level.

Messi to place the grafts, closes the pit with earth excavation, this crowd is slightly around the grafts, which then ricanzano. After running the system, you should not believe him to be able to leave the nursery. On the contrary, it requires diligent and patient care. The soil should always be kept clean from weeds and well stirred to the surface to prevent side crust, if it seems too little moisture, you need to do some light to moderate watering, and if despite this, the plants seem to grow stunted, you should have some first-fertilization effect, for example by spreading on the ground of the cesspool. We must remove the suckers that come out from the subject; operation that you will have slightly displacing the grafts. At the same time will also sbarbettatura, cutting small roots that had left the scion, thus avoiding the liberation of the graft.




sbarbettatura The first is usually done in early July, a second in early August, and after this no longer tucked grafts. Of great importance are also the treatments against downy mildew. They should repeat as many times as is necessary to never let this disease develop, which would be fatal to young seedlings. S'arriverà so late autumn, the leaves fall. If the rooted will in this first year of nursery development assumed a discreet, be possible to retain the transplant to stay, then pulled up in case other than to wait another year, leaving them still in the nursery. When grubbing, it will also make a careful choice of rooted, discarding those that are defective or sick, or too mean, or which do not seal tightly against the graft. So you can be sure of having an excellent material for the planting of new vineyards. I have dwelt somewhat on the subject of the preparation of grafted and livestock, because I find it very appropriate that each of you, as a small, prepared by if the material he needs to renew its vineyards, and if planted his small nursery.

You who are so good in all the affairs of the country, you should not have difficulty even in this. And there is no point in showing all the benefits he receives, and uses these choices rooted prepared with any care from you, rather than buying them from dealers, more or less conscientious, but always GP before anything of interest. And now I end up, because tonight is the time is later than usual. But I hope that it will be time lost. Good night!